I Bought a Wedding Dress, Now I Need Alterations! What's Next???
Congratulations! You found your dream dress! Now it's time to perfect it for the big day. You may be wondering where to start, when to start, how to start, and what alterations may need to be done for a perfect fit. Keep reading for alterations info and tips!
When to Start Alterations
Most seamstresses prefer to begin wedding dress alterations 3-4 months before the event date. This is a good window that is close enough to the wedding that people typically don't fluctuate much, and gives the seamstress enough time to complete alterations.
Finding a Seamstress
Many brides find it best to work with a seamstress near where they live, however, brides will be best served making the drive to a trusted, experienced wedding gown seamstress. Wedding dress alterations tend to be a multi-step process involving around 3 appointments/meetings with the seamstress.
Be sure to do your homework to find a competent seamstress. Ask around and see who's name keeps popping up. Check online reviews to learn about experiences other brides had working with a particular seamstress. Call ahead to potential seamstresses to ask about their services, experience with wedding gown alterations, and assess if they're a good fit for you.
Alterations Costs
Alterations costs vary depending on several factors. Each seamstress sets their own rates for their labor and services. Some alterations of higher complexity and labor intensity may cost more than the average. The average cost for wedding dress alterations, currently, tends to be around $500, to start. Setting aside and budgeting for a minimum of $500 is a smart plan when factoring alterations into the wedding planning budget.
Common Alterations
Hemming: Most brides will need to have their gown hemmed. The ideal hem length for a full-length gown is approximately 1/4" from the floor, barely brushing the ground. A good hem keeps the dress from getting underfoot but looks like it is nearly ground level.
Pro Tip: Be sure to choose the shoes you want to wear with your wedding gown and take them with you for alterations. The height of your hem will be affected by the height of your shoes.
Bust, Waist, and Hip Adjustments: Many brides will need adjustments at the bust, waist, and hips for a proper fit. The seamstress will typically make these adjustments by opening the side seams of the bodice and hip and taking them in to ensure a comfortable, but snug, fit.
Shortening Straps: Straps on wedding gowns are made at a standard length. It isn't unusual for the straps to be a bit long for some brides, and they need to be shortened during alterations.
Adding a Bustle: Gown designers don't add bustles because there are several different types to choose from to lift the train and support it so it doesn't drag on the floor.
What's a Bustle?
A bustle secures the dress train off the ground and into the back of the dress, keeping it from dragging across the floor all night. There are several types of bustles to choose from. Nearly all full-length dresses have hooks, ties, or buttons sewn into the dress train to secure the train bustle after the ceremony.
American Bustle (A.K.A Over-Bustle): The outside of the train is lifted and secured over the back of the gown to the dress's waistline. This is a simple bustle for the seamstress to do and easy to attach on the wedding day. This bustle adds drama to the back of the dress, creating a cascade effect as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt.
*Traditional Bustle: Similar to the American bustle, the fabric folds over instead of under, but the difference is in the pickup placements. Loops and hooks are added along the waistline and when the train is fastened across the multiple points, it creates the look of elegant pleats for the waist.
Ballroom Bustle: This bustle completely hides the train without changing the look of the dress.To create this seamless illusion, several points are added under the dress for the train to attach to. This gives the look for an untouched, floor-length gown.
French Bustle (A.K.A. Under Bustle): This bustle is the opposite of the American Bustle as it has the train fold under itself instead of over. The end look is an understated, two layer hem that makes a design in the back. Typically the seamstress will add color-coordinated ribbons or numbered ribbons underneath the gown. When it's time for bustling, the train tucks up and underneath as each ribbon is matched with its pair, creating a streamline fold. This is a beautiful, elegan bustle but it does take more effort for attendants to secure it.
Royal Bustle (A.K.A Victorian Bustle): This style ups the drama as the folds add more dimension to the silhouette. The royal bustle can be simple or elaborate, depending on what look is wanted. It can be a singular pickup point or it can be multiple pickup points added down and across the back.
Bow Bustle: The fabric is folded above the gown and secured with ties hidden under a bow. This allows the fabric to pick up and symmetrically flow from the elgant visual point of the bow. This style is perfect for gowns that have a statement bow or sash in the back.
Pro Tip: Bring your support person or people (maid of honor, bridesmaids, mom) to your final fitting appointment with the seamstress. Ask your seamstress to demonstrate how to secure the bustle so your support person or people know how to do so on the big day. Record the demonstration on a smart phone and save the video so your support person or people can review it again before the wedding and/or on the wedding day.
References
Deeb, S. (2025, June 5). Real talk: What is a wedding dress bustle and how does it work? The Knot. https://www.theknot.com/content/what-is-a-bustle